Jackfan2000@aol.com schrieb:
Hi.I hope that`s what you wnated!Does anyone still have the file that was formerly on the Pinnacle website
explaining the rules changes from the 1st to the 2nd edition of Deadlands?
If so, would you please tell me where I can still find it or e-mail me the
file?
mfg,
Philipp
Title: Untitled Document
Hey gang, Brawlin' Heavy clubs like pistol butts, ax handles, or entire chairs allow the attacker to chose whether she would like to cause lethal or nonlethal damage. If she just wants to cause Wind and try to knock her opponent out without causing serious injury, she can do so. Or she can bash the other fellow's brains out to her heart's content using the normal combat and damage system. Automatic Weapons A character can fire up to the weapons rate of fire each action, he just has to resolve each 3 round burst as a separate attack. A character firing a steam Gatling with a ROF of 6, for instance, would roll twice, once for each burst of 3 rounds. With a ROF of 9, you'd roll 3 attacks, and so on. The characters shootin roll determines how many rounds from each burst actually hit a target. Make one shootin roll per burst. Every success and raise means one of the three bullets hits its target. Additional raises are lost. Hit location for each round is always
rolled randomly. To hit targets further than 2 yards from
the primary target requires a second burst. (Though others may
be hit by the "Innocent Bystander" rules later in this
chapter.) The player must assign his hits before rolling damage or resolving a second burst. In other words, roll all your attacks, assign hits to targets, then go back and roll hit location and damage for each. That way you cant see if the first bullet in a burst kills some poor fool before assigning your second or third. A character firing on automatic can never
"draw a bead." The first shot of each burst can be a
called shot, however. Simply figure any raises from the adjusted
TN. A good brace such as a sling or a bipod reduces the recoil penalty to -1 or even 0 (Marshals call). Gatlings come mounted on a bipod that ignores all recoil penalties. Shotguns Shotguns add +2 to the firer's shootin': shotguns roll. Shot from a shotgun scatters as it travels,
so closer targets get hit with more pellets than those farther
away. For this reason, shotguns do more damage to close targets,
as shown on the table.
Touching means the shotgun is smack up against a persons body so that theres no chance any of the buck shot balls will miss. At this range, its assumed the victim is "under guard" and cant move. At ranges of 1 yard and further, its assumed the target can move enough that some of the balls might miss, hence the decreasing damage. Fanning the Hammer Veteran gunslingers sometimes "fan" their sidearms. Fanning simply means holding the trigger down on a single-action revolver and slapping the hammer repeatedly with the palm of the other hand. This puts a lot of lead in the air fast, though it isnt very accurate. Fanning requires the shootin': pistol Aptitude. The fanner needs one free hand and a sinble-action revolveer in the other. The rate of fire is 1 to 6, your choice on how many bullets you want to waste. Even if a gun holds more than 6 rounds, thats the most a fellow can fan in one action. Fanning one shot isnt really worth while, but it can be done. To resolve the attack, pick a target and figure out the TN based on the range and any other modifiers. Fanning a pistol isnt very accurate, so the shooter has to subtract 2 from his roll (this is on top of the "shooting from the hip" modifier, so the total penalty is -4). A success and each raise thereafter causes a bullet to hit. The firer chooses what targets he hits, though any besides the original target must be within 2 yards of the last target hit. A shooter cant draw a bead when fanning, though he can make a called shot on the first bullet only. Figure the TN for the first shot. Any raises after that hit random locations as normal. Fanning is very difficult, and thats
why only the best gunslingers do it. Even then, its only
used in an emergency. Use this maneuver wisely, or youll
find yourself out of bullets with a bunch of angry bad guys around
you.
Armor Reducing Damage When bullets, knives, or anything else go through an obstacle, they lose some of their energy. The thicker and tougher the obstacle, the more damage is absorbed. Some obstacles and targets have "armor ratings." Each level of Armor reduces the die type of damage by one step. An attack that uses d20s (like dynamite) is reduced to d12s by a single level of Armor. Two levels of Armor drops the damage to d10s, and so on. If the die type is dropped below a d4, drop the number of dice instead. An attack reduced to 0d4 does no damage. A 3d6 bullet that goes through something
with an Armor value of 1, for instance, is reduced to 3d4. A 3d6
bullet that hits something with an Armor of 2 is reduced to 2d4. In the rare cases a critter has no additional damage dice besides its Strength, it simply cannot penetrate anything with an Armor value of 1 or more. Occasionally, the Marshal may rule big creatures can cause nonlethal brawlin' damage, even to heavily armored targets, however. Stunning Prone Characters in Hand-to-Hand Standing Roll Quickness totals for major
bad guys and critters. For numerous extras, deal one card for
the whole lot. The down side (for them) is that they only get
one card. The up side is that they all get to go together like
one big happy, inbred family. It all balances out in the end. Pinnacle makes a bunch of minis for just this purpose (go to the Products Page if your store isn't smart enough to carry them). If youre gunshy about minis, you can use dice, coins, tokens from a game ("Im the shoe!") or counters with your posses names written on them. Place the minis on a map or a piece of paper with the terrain sketched in. Big sketch pads work great, and good hobby shops have erasable "battle mats" as well. Theres the pitch for using minis. We wont ram it down your throat. Well give you the cheat in the next paragraph. Promise. But first a disclaimer. Dont use this shortcut for important bad guys or really unique monstersyou should use the more detailed "wound" system for anything that spectacular. You should also use the regular wound system if theres only a few thugs involved in a fight. Okay. Enough disclaimers and preaching
about miniatures. Heres the shortcut. The best part? You can even tell the players their opponents size and let them "chip" your bad guys for you. That way you can keep even a really huge combat moving faster than a three-legged toad. We think you can probably figure this
out, but heres a quick table to sum up the wound levels,
the corresponding color of chip to mark it, and the wound penalty
to the unfortunate victims actions.
Wind How do you tell the stunned figures from
the dead ones? Take the chip off the dead ones, silly. |